Friday 16 January 2015

Day 68: Ko Phan-gan - Get it while you can



The road is much freer with the wind in your hair – and also with it on your bare chest and between your toes. Little winding concrete road, jungle covered hillsides with the odd shack and a little Chinese made scooter between your legs – perfect for a cruise around these empty roads. I stopped at a lean-to and dropped a couple Baht for a coke bottle of what I hoped was gasoline. The road doubled back on itself getting higher and higher, finally depositing me on a dirt parking lot, with a solitary sign marking the trail’s entrance.

The path was steep and dry, the sun hot and unfriendly. The sweat came out like the waterfall before me, emerging mysteriously out of the skin of the earth to dribble down the valley. Nobody here but me and a cool spring water pool at the bottom, to reward a sweaty climb.

As I climbed down the path to the pool, my private walk was interrupted by two pairs of legs emerging from below the foliage on the path. As I got down lower the legs went up and up, and the golden brown skin with it. The skin finally petered out just below the hips, as the skin tight shorts left nothing to imagination. Her hair hung in long, waves down over the same golden brown shoulders, framing large almond eyes and a wide cheeky smile. Her friend beside her wasn’t bad either. I tried to discreetly slip past with a polite nod, but was met with the requisite questions fired at every farang. “What your name? Where you from?” “Andrew, from Canada,” I said. This was met a constant stream of giggles, groans and chattering in Thai leaving me unable to get a word in. Finally, I managed a, “your English is good, did you learn from a Canadian?” “Yes,” she replied. “Last boyfriend was Canadian, but Canadian boy no good, meet many woman, say he only need one.” What can I say I thought, Thailand was filled with sleazy expats and probably a few on them were Canadian.

Before I could reply she said, “I like you, you look honest. Let’s go in the water.” With that she took my hand and led me over the wet rocks and over into the small wading pools below the falls. I tugged at my shorts trying to keep them up as we slip slided over the rocks. “What wrong,” she asked. “Oh my swimsuit keeps sliding down on me,” I replied. “That okay, you can let them down,” she suggested with a smile, tugging on my waistband. “Ahhh you never know who you’ll run into up here, so I’ll keep them on,” I said grabbing her wrist and pulling away her hand, with a thought of regret. “Let’s sit down here,” I said. We were sitting in our clothes in a small wading pool together. Tiny minnows swirled around pecking at our feet, eliciting little gasps from us every time they chewed off a little bit of skin. She cupped her hands trying to catch them, showing me their slim, silvery bodies wriggling in her palm. I had a brief thought, instantly suppressed, of myself in her hand, wriggling back and forth. I splashed water, it falling almost inevitably in her eyes, she trying to keep her fake eyelashes on, me feeling sheepish. No bad. She splashed back; completely soaked we headed back to our scooters in the parking lot. She asking for a promise to stop by her workplace on the main road, he promising to stop on his way back from the beach.

Promises fall by the wayside as the bikes speed through the jungle, past temples, rickety shacks selling gasoline, outdoor restaurants and gogo bars. Another day in paradise. 

For the road - Andrew.


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