The pounding headache had become a permanent fixture. I am doubled up, clutching my stomach, staring at the floor as we climb the final pass towards Mount Everest. The Himalayas snow covered peaks emerge in the distance from the dusty brown hills on either side. Around and around we go, slowly descending. The tourist van has to slow to a crawl to take the corners. The gravel road lends a constant jittering that goes through my entire body. I drink water and piss it out. Drink and piss. This is supposed to help. No idea if it does, it still feels as if everything is pressing down.
At the end of the dry river gully, buildings form. Clutching the side is Ronbruk Monastery. Elevation is at 5000 meters. This is the highest monastery in the world. In the same frame sits Everest. The sky is a deep blue. Wisps of clouds swirl around its peak. The mountain thrusts itself up from gully floor. The top is dark and barren. Snow covers below. Walking up a little hill to get a better view utterly exhausts me, but I don’t feel it. The wind whips around. I hide behind prayer flags for shelter and pop out to take pictures like I am firing arrows at the holy mountain.
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